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Buiding the Layout - Tips and Tricks We have no ambition to create a fabulous layout in terms of realistic landscape etc. The purpose of this section is just to share some tips and tricks that we have used in different sections, and I can assure you, it's no rocket science!
Ramps and Bridges Table of Contents I am using Plywood, 10 mm and 7 mm, for the layout construction. This material is fairly expensive, but you don't regret it when you deal with the ramps between the vertical levels. All turnouts - and adjacent tracks - are in horizontal positions, to avoid derailment of the trains as far as possible.
Also, I am not using curved turnouts, as the M track curved turnouts are a well-known source for derailment. If you are planning to include tracks on different vertical levels, spend significant time on the architecture here, to avoid too steep hills. Maximum steep on my ramps is 5 cm vertical on 100 cm horizontal. Maybe sounds like a lot, but the 1:1 scale "Bernina Express" deals with 7 cm on 100 cm without cog wheels.
Below, you will find some further examples of ramps and bridges construction. Mountains and Rocks Table of Contents As our mountains are "Crowded" with trains, we have to use a method that leaves a lot of space: The classic "chicken net" method! We use steel net with narrow stiches, to retain stiffness. This makes it easier to model the mountains, and we don't want them to be plain. Tunnel portals, building platforms etc. are made of wood, as you will se in the suite of pictures below which describes how the Castle Hill was constructed.
The net is then covered with papier maché, i.e. news paper wetted with wallpaper glue. The surface is now too plain, we need rocks. We use plaster rocks made from Woodland Scenics molds, however we like our own "aluminium foil molds" method better. First, you create the foil mold, using 2 or 3 layers of foil (depending on the thickness). A mold size of approx. 20 x 30 cm is easy to work with. You create the "rocks" by modeling the foil, e.g. using two (blunt) wood sticks. After carefully pouring the plaster into the mold, and after it has hardened, the result can be really nice.
Now, the plaster can be cracked or sawed into sizes appropriate to the rocks you want on the mountain. We mix rocks made from aluminium molds with rocks from Woodland molds. The rocks can be fixed with white glue or filler. The backside of the rocks could be completely covered with glue, to eliminate the risk that the plaster will decompose over time.
The space between the rocks can be eliminated with filler, which you find on any home depot store, Filler is also good for other adjustments on the hill.
Now it's time for painting the rocks. It takes some time before one finds a satisfying mix of colors, and a method that derives similar rocks all over the layout. All paint should be dull (subdued), unless you want the rocks to appear wet. As a base, we use a "granite grey" paint, aimed to be used for outdoor building bases. This paint, applied with a brusch, goes into the plaster and filler pores very well, which will eliminate the risk that the material will decompose over time. On the granite grey, two additional layers of lighter gray are applied with pieces of a baths sponge. Don't add too much paint to the sponge! Rock fissures and holes should be darker. On top of this, we add a brown color using the sponge, which is the same color we use beside the Märklin M tracks (Alcro's code S3010-Y30R). Also, dark red and green colors could be added. On top of eveything, an off-white color is added to indicate the contours of the mountain, which is very powerful.
On top of the green paint, later, different Woodland Scenics products have been added, like turf, underbrush and clump foliage. Don't forget the trees! I like e.g. the Noch 25200 "Wetterfichten" (spruces). Below, you will find some further examples of mountains and rocks construction. Construction of rocks surrounding tunnel portals:
Construction of Mattiasberg - the largest mountain - including cableway and waterfall: This is how the track ballast was added to the layout. First, a layer of paint which is close to Märklin M track "brown" (Alcro's code S3010-Y30R). When dry, a layer of mixed white glue, water and just a little washing-up liquid. Finally, a mix of 50% chinchilla sand (which is lighter) from the pet store and 50% "standard" sandpit sand (which is darker) was sprinkled. The mix derived a satisfying color. A few tests before going production, is recommended. No ballast is sprinkled between the rails.
For increasing the experienced space, backdrops are added to the layout. The mountain area is an item from Faller, the "Neuschwanstein", No. 180512. The castle model is also part of the background. It is a N scale building (1:160), and the small size at the back of the layout actually improves the virtual space. The building backdrops in the city are derived from the Internet, simply by printing certain pages supplied by Faller, Vollmer, Kibri etc.
As most of our locomotives are electric, there should be catenary on the layout. Our catenary is "dummy" only, i.e. there is no thread installed. As cross span bridges, we use Sommerfeldt's Swiss item No. 370, which have been soldered and painted using gray spray. There are three bridges in Andreasvik and one in Mattiasberg. The other poles are the "old" Märklin ones.
We are using two types of signals, Viessmann 4011 and the old Märklin 7039. We are not interested in complex signals, it is OK if they show "stop" and "go" only. The signals are controlled by the computer via digital Solenoids. The Viessmann signals are very easy to mount, however using the Märklin 7039 you need to hide the ugly box, as you will se in the picture below.
Bricks and Stones Table of Contents Would you be interested in including brick walls etc. on your layout? Below, please find links to some sheets in JPEG format received from friends on the web. I do not know the background or history of the material. It is my impression that the material has circulated a long time on the Internet and, in my opinion, the material should be considered as public. The material is offered free of charge with the purpose to support the world's greatest hobby. There is no purpose of infringing the rights of others. Please contact me if you consider that this site is violating the rights of any part of the material. (Right-click on the link, and select "Save target as...".) Our esteemed Märklin-Users.net forum friend, Perz, has constructed a magic module for me, a Light Sequencing Module, that can manage the following: Street and building lights can be turned "on" and "off" with a k83 solenoid decoder or a 7072 "stellpulte" (using the yellow and one blue cable only, like a decoupler). The power for the lights is feeded from a separate transformer. When the module is turned "on", the lights are turned on in 8 batches, with different intervals (1-5 seconds) between each batch. Each batch can include several lamps. The opposite happens when the module is turned "off". A great feature for the layout! In addition, Perz has provided 4 different programs in the PIC processor, determining the intervals and sequence between the batches. The cost for the components is about 15 USD. Perz has published the documentation on how to build this amazing little thing on his site. Thanks again Perz! Between the Light Sequencing Module and the individual light bulbs, we have added "potentiometers" to enable us to dim the light. As a funny (?) special effect, we have installed a Viessmann 5020 welding light in a factory in Andreasvik. It consists of an electronic box and a 3500 special light bulb. The device is also controlled by the computer via a k84 solenoid decoder. The waterfall and the rapids are first painted and then "water" is created by adding Woodland Scenics Water Effects. Expensive, but nice to use. On top, foam is created by adding some white paint. The Andreasvik bay is created using a painted board. On top, a transparent glass board is mounted. It has the pattern of waves.
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